DAY 2: FITTING RIGHT!
Every man can look good in a suit ONLY if its fits right. I believe every man should own at least one piece of suit because at one point you will need it. But how about i turn you into a suit maniac in a few…… although if you’re really about to get any benefit out of having your suits adjusted, you need to know a little bit about tailors and the kinds of adjustments they can (and can’t) make. You also need to know what a “Good Fit” looks like.
When trying on a suit, you need to stand up straight, preferably in the kind of shoe you will wear with the suit with your arms relaxed at your side. I know this is not a natural position for all of us, but it is the base from which most of our movement flow. If the suit doesn’t fit well in this instance, it’s not going to move comfortably with your body either. This are some of the areas that make a perfect fit:
A well fitted shoulder should lie flat, where the seam of the shoulder be the same length as the bone under it. This therefore means that, the seam should meet the sleeve of the suit right where your arms meet your shoulder. Shoulders are one of the hardest part to adjust after construction, so don’t but a piece with an ill-fitted shoulder.
When wearing a suit and standing. you should always have the jacket/blazer buttoned (remember day 1’s rule). When testing the fit of a blazer/ jacket, always close only one button even if it’s a three buttoned jacket. This is to check whether the two sides meet neatly without the lapels hanging forward off your body (too loose) or the lower edges of the jacket flare out like a skirt (too tight).
Blazer/ jacket sleeve length.
This is the length of the arm sleeve. one thing you need to be sure about is that the sleeve should not rise above the cuff entirely. The seam where the shirt cuff joins the shirt sleeve should never be visible. The same way the jacket sleeve should never hide the shirt sleeve entirely, at least a small band of shirt cuff should be seen.
How do you know if your jacket is too long or too short? A good jacket should fall past the waist and drape over the top of the curve formed by the trousers back (butt). The hands are also a good indicator, the hem of the jacket should hit right around the middle of your hand-at or just past where the fingers meet the palm.
Your jacket collar should rest against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest against the back of your neck…..all of these should touch slightly otherwise it will be too tight.
Trouser break/ allowance of the trouser.
This is the wrinkle caused when the top of your shoe stops your trouser cuff from falling to its full length.The trouser can fall a touch longer in the back than in front, so long as it’s still above the heel of the shoe. Wait…don’t get it twisted ( the actual heel, not just the back of the shoe).
A good fit in the seat will lie loosely against your underwear, without pulling too tight against your butt or draping loosely down your thighs.
preview : DAY 3 : ACCESSORIES
What accessories should accompany an elegant suit? Are the accessories too much? Is a watch a necessity or not? A slim tie or not?